Cooperative Designs

Photographed By Fohnjang Ghebdinga

I made a pit stop at London Fashion Week on Saturday, attending the Cooperative Designs' soiree in honour of its spring/summer 2011 collection.

Founded by Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann in 2007, Cooperative Designs have brought in Bollywood for this season's line, mixing Art Deco shapes and illustrations with harem pant and kaftan references. Inspiration for the colonial, fantasy collection came from Kenneth Anger's book, "Hollywood Babylon", which encapsulates glamour and scandal in the 1920s, the film "Death on the Nile", and the idea of creation without first-hand experience. While we found it hard to spot the Indian influence, the CD ladies assured us it's there.

The spring 2011 collection includes heavily patterned dresses, in addition to hand knitted jumpers and skirts, all of which was beautified in this presentation by the setting, a polished pianist, and champagne. It was a divine fantasy.

From Andy & Debb With Love

Photographed By Ellinor Forje

A spring and summer breeze, from Andy and Debb's show at the Lincoln Center. New York, September 16, 2010

Bruce Almighty

Photographed By Ellinor Forje

Life is strange. Twenty years ago, one side of my bedroom wall plastered with magazine pages of Bruce Weber's photography. I'd cut them out in an attempt to create a master piece collage. It was a half-butched-semi-succesful attempt, due to the fact that majority of the most interesting images had to be kept out of my parents sight (Marky Mark posing semi-naked in a pair of CK boxer briefs didn't fly high with the parental unit then, now, or ever).

I was in complete awe of this man (Bruce!) growing up. Still am. Yet, the day I finally ran into him, I could hardly believe my eyes. Although I recognized him instantly (the bandana gave him away) just to make sure that my mind wasn't playing tricks on me (just pinching yourself is never enough), I had to do a quick Q &As:

Me: Are you a photographer?

Bruce: Yes.

Me: Are you Bruce Weber?

Bruce: Yes. I am.

Odd Molly

Photographed By Ellinor Forje

Nicole Murphy, had been unfamiliar with the Swedish label, Odd Molly - prior to the label's fashion show held at the Lincoln Center, September 15, 2010. Her girlfriends had persuaded her to attend the event. She did and made a pleasant discovery along the fashion highway;" I like stuff that doesn't date itself" she said.

Odd Molly's line up for the Spring and Summer of 2011, is literally a scènes de la vie de bohème. Vintage being the key word. The models strutted down the runway in vintage blue denim jackets, silk slip dresses in vintage berry, cardigans in vintage lilac and vests in vintage patchwork. The flamboyance iss omnipresent.

Murphy, who prefers New York over Los Angeles in terms of style, as you can be as flamboyant as you want in New York - and get away with it; could easily have slipped into any of the Odd Molly clothing pieces, and gotten away with it.

And on her toned abs, "I work out everyday," she said. 

All Eyes On London

Photographed By Fohnjang Ghebdinga

It’s that time again when press, buyers, fashionistas and just plain ol' wannabes flock to Somerset House to catch a glimpse of the latest trends shimmying down the runway. Of course we got into vogue mode and headed down to the temporary fashion house, to get in on some of the action, too.

First out, Caroline Charles, who showcased an appealing collection which epitomized elegance, with a nice off-beat bridal finish.

Next, was Corrie Nielson's show. This designer is heavly influenced by the Elizabethan period as well as 1940s-50s French Haute Couture era. The inspiration was visible in the showcasing of her latest collection, as, "ice queens" strutted their stuff down the catwalk in navy blue, shaped and fitted, duchess-inspired pieces.

And saving the best for last; that would be Aminaka Wilmont’s “Totem” collection; the mystique of models draped in bold, edgy clothing.

All in all, it was a pleasant day out, without any controversy or outlandish behaviour to spread through the grapevine. Just fashion. And there's more where that came from.

Charlotte Ronson

Photographed By Ellinor Forje

"She told me to play grunge music," said Samantha Ronson. But, she had no idea what her sister - Charlotte Ronson's Spring 2011 Collection  looked like.

Rebecca Romijn

Photographed By Ellinor Forje

"I loved it" said Rebecca Romijn, in reference to Cynthia Rowley's Spring 2011Collection, and further elaborated, "It was very feminine."

There are details, like beads and other junk that the statuesque lady in blue was so over. Fortunetly, "Rowley twisted it, which I like," Romijn later added.

Z Spoke By Zac Posen

Photographed By Ellinor Forje

The show. Kimora Lee Simmons is on her way. New York, September 11, 2010.

Charmed By Charlotte

Photographed By Ellinor Forje

Angela and Vanessa Simmons, and Solange Knowles at Charlotte Ronson's show. New York, September 11, 2010.

The Prediction

Photographed By Ellinor Forje

In 1991, Naomi Campbell graced the cover of "Time Magazine" In an edition which also featured Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, and Cindy Crawford The story, "Supermodels: The Beauty And The Buck"" catalogued the models' quintessence. And to a certain extent, their fall, too.

Evangelista was described by the fashion forecasters as someone who knew that "the clock was ticking". According to them, at the mere age of 28, she was on her way out of the game, because models back then came with an expiration date.

Evangelista defied and re-defined the rules of her trade. Today, she's still modelling. The girls are all still modelling.

Campbell, then 22, was described as someone who should be watching her back as she already had three competitors. One was Tyra Banks. The other Beverly Peele. The third one's name has fallen into oblivion. Banks carved out her own place in history. Peele was occasionally seen here and there. Today Campbell is an icon.

The prognosticator's prognoses were as accurate as the tutor's when he told Albert Einstein's father that Einstein would amount to nothing.

Then again, maybe the seer wasn't as delusional as it seemed 20 years ago. On September 10, 2010, outside the Dolce  & Gabban store in New York, Campbell wasn't modelling in the traditional sense at all.

She danced.

LaQuan Smith

Photo Courtesy Of LaQuan Smith 

Tell us about yourself and your background

I am LaQuan Smith, I am 22 years old, born on August 30th, 1988 in Queens, NY. I learned to sew from my grandmother and I started with basic patterns until I started to explore doing things on my own and developed my own techniques on creating garments. I was diagnosed with cancer and am proud to be a cancer free and a survivor. I graduated from high school in 2007 and started interning at Blackbook Magazine, from there I decided I wanted to start my own line. After two successful New York Fashion Week Shows and constant traveling to other countries like South Africa, France, and more I just feel blessed and thankful to be able to showcase my collection and personal vision of fashion and design.

When did you know that you wanted to become a designer?

I have always had a love for fashion, art, and design. I started sewing when I was 13, I got a lot of my drive to become a designer from my grandmother who was the main person in my family who helped me develop and fine tone my craft.

What inspires you?

I am inspired by tons of things: art, cultures, photography, people in the streets and in my personal life, books, other designers, fabric. I feel a connection to art and culture that allows me to reinterpret them into my designs.

You stated during panel discussion with André Leon Talley that you have no formal training within fashion design. Yet, you are able to create complex pattern-designs. Where and how did you obtain this skill?

I learned by the classic method of trial and error. I began sewing at a young age and noticed that certain things worked and some that didn't work. I started buying clothes I like and slowly dissected and deconstructed them. I began to imitate the overall construction while manipulating the stitches, patterns, and forms in my own way.

How instrumental has Talley been in your shaping your interest in the fashion world?

Within the fashion community my major supporter and the most influential person is Mr. Andre Leon Talley. Andre has embraced my world and has allowed me to dream further than I have ever before. He has given me expert advise, personal opinions, and true mentoring and friendship. 

You have created outfits for both Rihanna, Alicia Keys, and Lady Gaga, how did these collaborations come about?

These collaborations came about through a few ways, my press agent and manager, Ms Kelly Mills of the Fashion Art Gallery connected me with these ladies and I have created relationships with team members from the individual artists.

How did the project "Marie Antoinette" come about?

I was inspired by my recent travels to Paris. The women were "Très Chic". I was able to check out the Palais Royal, the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower. These monuments made me contemplate the past and the historical background of the French people which lead to me to the final family of the French Monarchy. 

What was it like to work with Serena Williams?

Serena is overall a sweet person. Andre Leon Talley introduced us and she was so down to earth, kind, intelligent, and an very elegant woman. Serena is wonderfully delightful person to be around with tons of positive energy and I loved spending the little time we had together discussing our goals for the future. 

You made a last minute alteration on her dress right before the show, what was the detail that obstructed your vision?

I wasn't altering the dress completely; I just had some refinement to the dress' hem line and bodice. No major overhaul was done but, the bodice and hems needed to be impeccable for my guests, my clientele, and myself. My vision was to make her this over the top Queen inspired gown with phenomenal detail, gaudiness, and elegance. 

Did you feel pressured knowing that living legends such as Diane von Furstenberg was among your audience members?

Of course, if don't feel the pressure you aren't living in the moment. I am able to consider Diane and Andre friends and mentors in fashion and life. I appreciated them both taking the time to spend it with me and support my S/S 2011 Collection. 

Who are your favourite designers and your favourite part of fashion?

I love Diane von Furstenberg, Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, and Karl Lagerfeld. I feel most touched by Cristobal Balenciaga's work and the whole house of Balenciaga's design aesthetic. My favorite part of fashion is the overall experience of being able to fantasize alongside the Creative Director of each brand, every season. Fashion is always changing, always evolving, and always collaborating with different genres, cultures, and ideologies. 

What advice can you, from your own experience, offer people aspiring for a career in the fashion industry?

My advice for people wanting to come into the fashion industry would have to be three things: Always create the best possible product, quality is key. Go out and keep going out to meet people in the industry, networking is mandatory. Create a great support team, people you can trust and always have your best interests. 

What is your Philosophy of Life and where do you see yourself in the next couple of years?

My Philosophy, in general, is to take every moment and experience and make the best of it, why waste time on things you do not enjoy or love? There are a few things I am striving to accomplish for both myself and LaQuan Smith, LLC. In the near future, I would like a successful show my Spring/Summer 2011 Collection during two upcoming fashion weeks in Athens, Greece and the Cayman Islands. I am also excited to launch my diffusion line entitled LQS. LQS is a more affordable line that will be available online by late January to Early February 2011. For the rest of my career, I would like to establish my brand as one of the top international designer labels alongside Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel and my mentor, Mrs. Diane von Furstenberg. I envision setting a new, fresh tone for women's apparel and carving a niche for my clothes, my designs, and my consumer in the international market.